From November onwards, the local town and village squares herald Christmas in traditional style with a host of pop-up markets where you’ll find all the must-have Christmas gifts and goodies. The markets are also a great place to meet with local craftsmen, pick out a new Santon figurine for your crib scene and savour some seasonal delicacies.
On Saint Barbara’s Day on December 4th, grains of wheat left over from the previous harvest are sown in three dishes. If the wheat is flourishing on December 25th it is said that the new year will be prosperous.
Imagine the birth of Jesus in a Provencal village… The crib scene, with its Santon figurines, brings legends to life and shines the spotlight on traditional Provencal village life, with its many ancient customs.
You simply can’t have a Provencal crib scene without santon figurines! In addition to traditional characters, santons feature a multitude of typical Provencal figures: the shepherd, fishwife and baker, plus the donkey, ox, sheep, camels and even cats…
Christmas and its succession of traditional dishes and delicacies has a flavour all of its own in Provence. The “gros souper” or “repas maigre” supper opens the festivities on the eve of the 24th, while the rich “repas gras” or “réveillon” is traditionally served after Midnight Mass. Christmas Dinner is served at lunchtime on December 25th.
Inspired by religious orders, the “4 beggars” featured in Provence’s traditional 13 Desserts are: walnuts and hazelnuts for the Augustinians, dried figs for the Franciscans, almonds for the Carmelites and raisins for the Dominicans. The beggars are accompanied by “pompe à huile” (brioche made with olive oil), black and white nougat,”verdaù”(green melon) and candied fruit.
More than just a religious celebration, midnight mass on December 24th is a moment of emotion and sharing. A genuine institution in Provence, one of its highlights is the “Pastrage” ceremony, when a procession of shepherds, fishermen and farmers in traditional dress offer up their finest produce.
A highly-theatrical and much-coveted Christmas ceremony, “La Pastorale” evokes the voyage to the stable and celebration of the Baby Jesus. The play is acted out in Provencal dialect, with shepherds wearing traditional costumes.
The Epiphany, or arrival of the Three Kings, is one of the highlights of Christmas, celebrated on January 6th when all the family get together to savour the delicious “Brioche des Rois” (Kings’ Cake) decorated with candied fruit – a speciality found only in Provence and yet another good reason to prolong the party!
On February 2nd, it’s time to put your beloved santon figurines back in their boxes and savour Marseille’s traditional navette biscuits. First invented in 1781, their shape is inspired by the legend of Mary Magdalene’s arrival on the shores of Provence in a rowing boat…
