5 locations in Marseille in the footsteps of women activists

Every year, March 8th is an opportunity to shine a spotlight on the fight for women’s rights. But aside from this unique day, women have been battling every day for centuries to defend their freedom and that of others. Close-up on 5 locations in Marseille marked by women, their courageous combats, and artistic and even culinary initiatives.

La Campagne Pastré: when Lily Pastré protected artists in danger

In the 8th arrondissement of Marseille, at the gateway to Calanques National Park and at foot of the Massif de Marseilleveyre, lies a bourgeois bastide: La Campagne Pastré. This is the site of the Villa Provençale, the former residence of Lily Pastré, a rich heiress but especially an historic patron and activist. In the 1940s, when most of France was occupied by the Germans and the Nazi regime was hunting down its ideological opponents, Lily Pastré decided to turn her villa into a refuge for artists and intellectuals in danger. She founded the association “Pour que l’esprit vive” (May the spirit live on) and opened her doors to such famous figures as Edith Piaf, Joséphine Baker, André Masson, Rudolph Kundera and Darius Milhaud, together with Jewish artists under threat when the German Occupation moved South, such as Clara Haskil, Lily Laskin, Youra Guller and many more. Known for her eccentric character and taste for partying, on July 27th, 1942 she hosted an evening event that was to go down in history: a performance of Shakespeare “A Midnight Summer’s Dream” by her Jewish protégés, in the presence of German authorities. Today, the Campagne Pastré grounds are open to the public. Visitors can admire, in particular, the immense Château Pastré that belonged to the ex-husband of Lily Pastré, visible when you enjoy a refreshing walk around the shaded, tree-lined grounds or on the way to the departure point for a hike in the Massif de Marseilleveyre.

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Une publication partagée par Marie-Cecile Michel (@mariececilemichel)

Marseille History Museum: a space dedicated to Berty Albrecht

If curiosity leads you to the Musée d’Histoire de Marseille, you’ll discover a space dedicated to one of France’s greatest feminists and Resistance fighters: Berty Albrecht. Born in Marseille, she became passionate about women’s rights at an early age and went on to become of member of the Human Rights League, before founding a magazine entitled “Le Problème Sexuel”, in which she fought for women’s right to abortion. From 1936, she joined the “Lutte Ouvrière” (worker’s struggle), demanding better working conditions for women. Then came the war. Ferociously opposed to Fascism and the Nazi regime, she decided to pour her militant energy into the French Resistance. Imprisoned in 1942 at the Saint-Joseph jail in Lyon, she continued to protest with a hunger strike, before managing to escape and returning to Marseille. However, she was betrayed and arrested again in Mâcon in 1943, then thrown into jail at Fresnes, where she died. Alongside the Resistance fighter Renée Lévy, she is the only woman buried at the “Mémorial de la France Combattante” on Mont Valérien. Berty Albrecht is also one of 6 women awarded the “Croix des Compagnons de la Libération” bravery award after her death.

Boulevard des Dames: when women defended the city

Stretching from Quai de la Joliette to Porte d’Aix, Boulevard des Dames was marked by the courage and fighting spirit of the women of Marseille in the 16th century. It was 1524 and the armies of Charles V, led by the commander of the armies of Bourbon, embarked on the siege of Marseille. To push back the enemy, the population came to support the army of François 1: the participation of the city’s women turned out to be decisive. History tells that thanks to them, trenches were dug and ramparts erected in just three days, during which aristocratic women joined forces with the commoners. The effort was so huge that the wall built to prevent the enemy advances was baptized the “ladies’ bastion”. In 1805, the route of the battle was renamed Boulevard des Dames in tribute to the women’s uprising and a commemorative plaque was placed on the corner of Rue de la République. To see it, if you’re arriving in the city at Gare Saint-Charles, simply head down Boulevard des Dames towards La Joliette, with Les Terrasses du Port shopping mall on one side and Cathédrale de la Major on the other.

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Une publication partagée par Ça s'est passé à Marseille (@les_massaliotes)

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Une publication partagée par Manyoly (@manyoly)

From Le Panier to Cours Julien: street artist Manyoly

Back to current day! While the people of Marseille built walls to push back the enemy in the 16th century, today’s inhabitants, like Manyoly, use them to express their art. This street artist, born in the region, creates huge, powerful and colourful portraits of women, which she displays on the city’s walls. A rare woman in a mainly-masculine artistic milieu, Manyoly draws her inspiration from the women she meets and offers them a public tribune through her art. If you keep your eyes peeled, you can catch their gaze as you stroll through the streets of the Panier quarter and around Cours Julien. To start your treasure hunt, go to the corner of Montée des Accoules and Rue Sainte-Françoise, then walk up to the crossroads with Rue Fontaine du Caylus, where you’ll see a large mural measuring 5 metres in height and 10 metres in width. It’s hard to miss! Then, head towards Cours Julien via 121 Cours Lieutaud where you can admire one of Manyoly’s works adorning a shop front if the shutters are down. Finally, once you reach Cours Julien, head down Rue Pastoret – a must-see hub of Marseille street art – and take a look around: perhaps you’ll spot a multi-coloured woman observing you…

La Femme du Boucher: meet liberated chef Laëtitia Visse

Passionate about cooking from an early age, Laëtitia Visse was determined to become a chef. But after obtaining her diploma at the Ecole Ferrandi, she found herself in a (very) male-dominated world. Shouldered by her female peers, she decided to break the silence and speak up about the verbal and physical violence she underwent during her various professional experiences. Through their powerful and militant speeches, Laëtitia Visse and her sisters shone a light on the taboo subject of sexism in the culinary world, challenging the entire sector so that future generations would not have to suffer the same fate. She left Paris for Marseille to distance herself from the environment she condemned, gradually finding her bearings again as well as her identity as a female chef. In 2020, during Covid, she decided to open her own restaurant – La Femme du Boucher (The Butcher’s Wife) – in a former butcher’s shop on Place Castellane, where she could finally express herself to the full and devote herself to her passion for meat and charcuterie-based dishes. Interestingly, she has even written a book called “Les couilles, dix façons de les préparer” (Balls, 10 ways to prepare them), containing recipes on how to cook little-known offal dishes. One can’t help thinking it is also a snub to the sexist men and attitudes she has battled over the course of her career.