No, Chapeau de Paille is not a milliner's boutique, but the Provencal bistro of Julien Martinat, an adventurer of taste in search of authenticity. It's a place that's free of convention, relaxed and committed, that smells of the South and values local produce. Based in Saint-Rémy-de-Provence, the chef is a fervent advocate of short circuits, making 90% of his purchases within a 20 km radius. His privileged relationships with Alpilles producers set the tone and color of his cuisine. The chef works with organic or sustainable produce, advocates natural wines and plays with local flavors. Choices that underpin the quality of his dishes and get the heart racing.