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[CAMP BASE IN PROVENCE]

Between Provence Verte and the Mediterranean

❤️ Provence is a region that inspires contemplation, well-being, and culinary pleasure, captivating visitors with its diverse landscapes that offer endless opportunities for adventure. What better way to reconnect and savor all these facets of Provence than through sustainable transportation? Plus, it’s good for the planet. We have created four slow experiences based at a base camp, the first of which is entirely on foot, by bike, and by public transport (bus and train), so you can experience this same circuit in the most carbon-neutral way possible.

Meandering between the verdant Provence Verte area and Mediterranean coast, this four-day slow trip is an invitation to discover the multi-faceted soul of the South. Starting from the peaceful town of Brignoles, it winds its way to vibrant Marseille, elegant Aix-en-Provence, La Celle and its ancient abbey and discreet Tourves, tucked away in the Var hinterland. This adventure, combining city forays, natural wonders and heritage treasures, all at your own pace, is the ideal way to savour each location without keeping an eye on the clock. Just follow the guide!

Day 1: Brignoles, ancient city of the Counts of Provence

Welcome to Brignoles, a history and personality-packed town niched in beautiful Provence Verte, in the Var area. The former stronghold of the Counts of Provence, its medieval heritage, picturesque lanes and dynamic local community never fail to seduce. Offering an alluring blend of Provençal traditions, world-renowned vineyards and preserved landscapes, Brignoles embodies southern French authenticity and the typical, easy-going lifestyle of the Provence-Alpes-Côte d’Azur region.

So, now we’re here, you’re probably wondering what there is to do! We’ve curated a pocket guide to the best walks and activities in and around Brignoles for your greatest touring pleasure…

Things to do in and around Brignoles

→ Amble around the old quarter and visit the Musée des Comtes de Provence (temporary closure, reopening in 2028)

→ Enjoy a breath of fresh air at the Jardin Charles Gaou, a holder of the “Remarkable Garden” label

→ Sip an aperitif on Place Caramy, in the beating heart of Brignoles

→ Savour a hilly walk along the water’s edge on the “L’Eau et le Rocher du Gueit” trail (9.5 km, 245-metre climb, length 3 hours approx). The views over Provence Verte from the top are simply superb.

→ Explore the outskirts of Brignoles on the “Balade de l’Abbaye au Caramy” trail (10.5 km, easy walk, length about 2 hours including abbey tour). Crossing vineyards and the banks of the river Caramy, this countrified stroll leads through the village of La Celle, where you can visit the superb Abbaye de la Celle and enjoy some wine tasing at the Maison des Vins.

→ You’ll find the GPX track for our Brignoles tour here.

Tips and top addresses for Day 1:

  • Where to stay in Brignoles: Maison Sumiane. This irresistibly charming and very exclusive guest house is set inside a tastefully-restored 19th-century bastide.
  • Rent a bike in Brignoles at the Fondation Apprentis d’Auteuil de Brignoles – the foundation restores old bikes to give them a new lease of life.
  • Best restaurants in Brignoles: La Petite Boutique Gourmande, a simple but generous menu featuring a choice of 3 main courses. Le Jardin, a holder of the Maître Restaurateur label: a superb, semi-gastronomic address (you’ll need to book ahead). Last but not least, Chichement Bon, serving 100% vegetarian dishes based on chickpeas. Frankly delicious.
  • Prepare a picnic in Brignoles at Lafitau Caramy, a gorgeous boulangerie dating back to 1950, selling a range of delicious signature goodies.
  • Visit Abbaye de la Celle: the abbey is a listed monument offering free tours from Tuesday to Sunday from 10 am-5.30 pm (March, April and September) and 6.30 pm (May to August).
  • Find out more about visiting Provence Verte.

Jour 2 : De Brignoles à Marseille

From Gare Saint-Charles railway station, we wandered the short distance to the Vieux-Port (Old Port) to plunge straight into Marseille’s buzzing ambience. Today, we decided to borrow one of the electric bicycles loaned out by the city council to visit the Catalans quarter, where you’ll find the first beach outside the city centre and the start of the cycle path and Corniche, Marseille’s stunning coast road – the finest in France and no doubt the entire world!

Driven on by the alluring scents of sea air, hair swept by the mistral wind, we continued on to the Malmousque quarter (we love its blend of trad and bourgeois), then the Vallon des Auffes (very photogenic with its colourful little fishermen’s cottages) and Endoume, where magnificent villas flirt with azure Mediterranean waters. Among our faves: the coves of Anse de Malmousque and Anse de la Fausse Monnaie, and discreet beach of Maldormé.

We climbed back on our bikes and wound our way along the voluptuous curves of the Corniche coast road. It has to be said, this wide boulevard gazing out over the sea really is exceptional. We pedalled to Plage du Prophète before heading back to the Vieux-Port, but if you fancy, you can continue on to the Prado beaches or further.

After the Vieux-Port, we hopped on the Metro line 2 from the Noailles quarter to Cours Julien (locally known as Cours Ju). With its colourful lanes, street art, shaded little squares perfect for sipping a pastis in the shade of plane trees, vintage shops and independent retailers, this quarter truly is a one-of-a-kind, embodying the very soul of Marseille: carefree, independent, creative and rebellious.

Before you head back to Brignoles, take time to stop off at the Palais Longchamp. With its impressive, semi-circular design and majestic statues spouting water from the river Durance, this Second Empire Neoclassical monument is a genuine icon of Marseille. The palace is home to two museums and tree-filled grounds where you can enjoy a welcome rest in the shade. What’s more, the views over Marseille from the terrace are quite simply exceptional.

We jumped on a tram at the foot of the palace to Gare Saint-Charles (it’s easily doable on foot too) to return to Brignoles.

→ You’ll find the GPX track for Day 2 here.

Tips and top addresses for Day 2:

  • Brignoles <> Marseille: bus number 94 from Place Clemenceau to Marseille Saint-Charles railway station.
  • Hire a bike in Marseille: it’s easy with the Levelo app – simply pick up your electric bicycle from one of the stations in the city centre.
  • Our fave addresses in the Endoume quarter: Okjo, a zero-waste grocery store where you’ll find some great little souvenirs. Cécile or Boujou for a coffee or lunch break. La Meulerie if you’re a cheese fiend.
  • Our top addresses on Cours Julien: Maison Loko, showcasing local, seasonal cuisine. Chez Matza serving Eastern Mediterranean specialities. Pain Pan or House of Pain for a sweet treat. Razzia or LABC for a sandwich unlike any other.
  • Getting around Marseille: 24-hour city pass €5.20 per person
  • More inspiration and ideas on the Marseille Tourist Office website.

Day 3: Brignoles to Aix, city of light

The ever-changing light illuminating Aix-en-Provence could easily have been invented just for artists. It is here that Paul Cezanne set down his easel facing Mont Sainte-Victoire, fascinated by the endless variations of sunshine and shade playing on its limestone rocks. The home town of Émile Zola, Aix cultivates discreet elegance, echoed in its murmuring fountains, golden lanes and lively little squares. Surrounded by vines and olive groves, the town embodies Provence at its most refined, with art, history and flavours mixing with timeless grace. A stroll around Aix offers a delightful taste of the legendary local lifestyle, where culture meets blue skies.

We have concocted a variety of touring suggestions for Aix-en-Provence, according to your taste:

Pedestrian tour of Aix-en-Provence’s historic quarter, taking in all the main sights. Enjoy a self-guided foray (map available from the Tourist Office) or opt for a specialist-interest tour – simply take your pick. For example, how about an arts & crafts tour or admiring the latest exhibitions?
If you’re a fervent foodie who loves sampling local dishes and produce, you can book a 1.5-hour gourmet stroll with Thomas (Tuesdays, Wednesdays, Thursdays, Friday and Saturdays at 9 am) or a 3.5-hour stroll (Tuesdays, Thursdays, Fridays and Saturdays at 11 am). Find out more.
Did you know that the hills around Aix-en-Provence are home to some of Provence-Alpes-Cote d’Azur’s finest terroirs? Enjoy an accessible Wine & Vine electric bicycle tour (18 km – 2.5 hours) winding up with wine tasting – naturellement!

→ You’ll find the GPX track for our Aix-en-Provence tour here.

Tips and top addresses for Day 3:

  • Brignoles <> Aix-en-Provence: bus number 60 or 93 from Place Clemenceau. Journey 1 hour approx.
  • Eating out in Aix-en-Provence: Maison Nosh for a tasty and colourful brunch. The very quaint Coffee Shop Vanim, piled high with mouthwatering pastries. Les Filles à Maman, an XXL vintage-style eatery that takes you straight back to childhood. Chez Girafe, for a front row seat on Place des Cardeurs at lunchtime.
  • More inspiration and ideas on the Aix-en-Provence Tourist Office website.

Day 4: Brignoles to Tourves

Before kicking off our last day, we popped into Brignoles Tourist Office to pick up a kit for their outdoor escape game “Le Mystère de Valbelle”. Next, we got back in the saddle and headed along the “Du train à la mine” trail, leading to the neighbouring village of Tourves, where we particularly wanted to visit the Musée des Gueules Rouges. The museum – a reconstruction of an old mining site – invites visitors to delve into the little-known world of bauxite mining – a resource that forged the area’s industrial past. The fascinating layout features interactive exhibits, stories and experiments set inside a reconstructed mineshaft, for an unforgettable plunge into the life of miners in days gone by.

After a delicious and well-earned lunch, we headed off to Château de Valbelle, standing guard over Tourves. Nestling amid lush vegetation, the remains of this splendid chateau, erected in the 18th century by a marquis obsessed with both art and pomp, are redolent with poetry. Ancient columns, forgotten statues and mysterious alleyways tell the story of this romantic site, a genuine place out of time. If you’re looking for a novel way to learn more, the Tourist Office’s escape game “Le Mystère de Valbelle” is a must for all the family – you soon get caught up in the intrigue, set around the ruins. The aim? To find out who stole the marquis’ treasure! We don’t want to spoil your fun of course – we’ll let you do the detective work 😉

Tips and top addresses for Day 4

  • Visit the Musée des Gueules Rouges: Price: adults €6 / youngsters 6-18 years €4 / free for under 6s. Find out more. Preferential rates on the Tourist Office website.
  • The outdoor escape game “Le Mystère de Valbelle”: the Brignoles Tourist Office offers a game kit including a list of tasks, clues and a few objects to facilitate your search. You’ll need to leave some ID with them as a deposit. The game is self-guided and takes about 2 hours. Price €35 for up to 6 players.  You can also book your kit at the Musée des Gueules Rouges or Saint-Maximin-la-Sainte-Baume Tourist Office.
  • Brignoles <> Tourves by bike: 25 km, 100-metre uphill slope, length 2 hours approx, easy. You can view the route here.