From Marseille and the Côte Bleue to the Luberon

Our adventure begins in the heart of Marseille, on the forecourt of Saint-Charles station. Perfectly located, it offers quick access to the Old Port, the nerve centre of the Phocaean city. From here, we wander at our leisure along the port, looking for the tallest mast and the most beautiful boat. Very quickly, we find ourselves in the narrow, flower-filled streets of Le Panier. This neighbourhood is largely pedestrianised, inspiring us to stroll around. We wander at random through the winding streets. We head towards Rue du Panier, then Rue du Petit-Puits with its craft shops, ending up at the always lively Place de Lenche.

It’s impossible to visit Le Panier without stopping by the Mucem, its footbridge and gardens. We then return to the station to continue our adventure, which is only just beginning.

Hop on the Côte Bleue train

We’re boarding one of the most unusual railway lines in Provence, and even in France. Clinging to the side of a cliff, it crosses the chaotic Nerthe massif and races along the coast to Miramas.

The unique feature of this train is that it offers views that only it can provide. What a privilege! We pass through the Estaque district, a few secret coves and sheer cliffs. Our eyes are fixed on the sea and the sparkling blue that we never tire of admiring. Could there be a better passenger than the Mediterranean itself?

The journey, punctuated by 23 tunnels, 18 viaducts, 2 bridges and 1 canal, promises to be spectacular. Depending on your preferences, you can travel directly to Miramas or make several stops in Niolon, Carry-le-Rouet or Sausset-les-Pins for a dip in the sea.

We opted for a stop in Martigues, which we like to call ‘the Venice of Provence’. We hopped on a bus to the city centre, just in time to enjoy the evening light illuminating the island (a must for photographers, but not only!).

→ You can find the route we took here.

Although Martigues is a small town, it is nonetheless pleasant and surprising. To visit it, you first need to understand that it is made up of three districts with very different atmospheres: the island, Ferrières and Jonquières. Connected by bridges, it is also possible to travel between these districts using a free water shuttle (the journeys are short but very enjoyable).

Inevitably, our day of exploring Martigues begins on the island, the main and historic district where a dolce vita atmosphere reigns. With its pastel colours, small port with its bird mirror and majestic Provençal Baroque church, it is no surprise that many painters have been inspired by this district.

We follow the sea spray that guides us along the Galliffet Canal to the Étang de Berre, where we find the Parc de la Rode. If you feel like it, you can take a dip at Ferrières beach along the way. On the other side of the lagoon, which resembles an inland sea, Sainte-Victoire stands like a watchtower in the middle of Provence.

It’s time to move on to our next stop. Always striving to minimise our carbon footprint, we opt for the bus, which is easy to catch from Place des Aires, heading for Istres.

Visit to Istres

To discover Istres, we followed two itineraries suggested by the tourist office. The first, ‘from one beautiful view to another’, took us along the Berre lagoon, through a beautiful pine forest where there are many places to stop for a swim or to contemplate the scenery. A little later, on our way back to the historic centre, we followed an audio tour marked by 12 stops starting at the Porte d’Arles. This tour plunges us into medieval times with lots of anecdotes about the narrow streets, old wash houses, bread ovens and the role of certain old buildings. The highlight of the tour ends on the square in front of the Notre-Dame-de-Beauvoir church, where you can enjoy a beautiful view of the Olivier pond.

→ You can find our tour of Martigues here and our tour of Istres here.

As soon as we arrive by bus in Salon-de-Provence, we fall in love with the place. The slender houses and elegant historic centre are evidence of the town’s prosperous commercial past, thanks to oil and soap. One of the most famous soap factories still remains: Marius Fabre. We walked over to the factory, which offers free guided tours. It’s a great way to learn about how soap is made and how to recognise genuine Marseille soap.

As always, we recommend wandering around at your leisure. That’s what Provence is all about: letting yourself be carried away by a scent, a sound, a light. In the centre, you can’t miss the clock tower and the mossy fountain. Finally, for a bird’s eye view, head to the Château de l’Empéri, where the view over the rooftops of Salon-de-Provence will leave you speechless.

→ Follow in our footsteps in Salon-de-Provence here.

What we love about travelling by bus is being able to take the time to admire the scenery. And how beautiful the Luberon landscape is! Colourful and intense, just like Reillanne, the stunning hilltop town where our bus stops. From the flamboyant ochre to the intense green of the garrigue and olive trees, I remain glued to the window until we arrive in Manosque.

Nestled between the hills of Haute-Provence and on the left bank of the Durance, the town of Manosque appears around a bend in the road. For once, we find all the ingredients that make Provence so charming. Old churches, ramparts, fountains, wash houses, colourful shutters and traditional houses. But two visits particularly caught our attention.

First, the Centre Giono, partly dedicated to the Manosquin artist, located in the Hôtel Raffin in a superb Provençal building. Soldier, dreamer, prisoner for his pacifist ideas, resistance fighter and loyal to his hometown, the permanent exhibition invites us to follow the major stages of the novelist’s life. If you have time, you can pick up one of his works (at random, perhaps The Horseman on the Roof?) and settle down in the pleasant little courtyard to read.

A little further on, we recommend stopping by Cordonnerie Olmeta. Run by two lovely sisters, Myriam and Noëlla, who have taken over the family business, this charming shop exudes authenticity and a passion for the craft. Finally, don’t miss the Manosque market on Saturday morning to stock up on local products.

You can extend your stay in Provence by visiting Aix-en-Provence or Marseille, as you wish.

→ The GPX track for this stage can be found here