From the Calanques to the Estérel via the coastline

To make the most of Marseille and its most beautiful attractions, we suggest you start your day early at the Old Port. The atmosphere is relaxed as local life awakens. This is where the shuttles depart for the Frioul archipelago. Spend the morning discovering the riches of the Calanques National Park, of which the Frioul Islands are a part. On a beautiful 9 km walk, we go from Ratonneau Island to Pomègues Island. This is an opportunity to see Saint-Estève beach, Caroline Hospital and the Crine calanque, considered the most beautiful beach in Frioul.

We take the shuttle bus for a 30-minute ride with the wind in our hair, passing by the Château d’If, the famous prison of the Count of Monte Cristo. After lunch in the Noailles district, we board bus 60 to reach one of Marseille’s most iconic sites: Notre-Dame de la Garde. The ‘Bonne Mère’ (Good Mother), as the people of Marseille call it, overlooks the city and offers breathtaking views. It is one of the must-see attractions that should not be missed. The day ends with a stroll through Le Panier, an ideal neighbourhood for wandering around and shopping for typical local products such as Provençal santons, olive oil and navettes.

→ You can find the route we took here.

With our metro pass, we reach Saint-Charles station in just three stops to board a TER train bound for La Ciotat. The Port-Vieux is bustling with activity on market day. The stalls are colourful and there is something for everyone.

Although Old La Ciotat is particularly beautiful, we wanted to get back to nature and enjoy the nearby Soubeyranes cliffs. And what better way to change your perspective than a kayak trip? Whether on your own or in a small group, at your own pace, we recommend paddling as we did to the Mugel cove and then to Cap de l’Aigle. As you cross it, you gradually see Cassis appear in the distance. It’s striking and breathtaking. The more athletic among you can also land on Île Verte and add a few kilometres to your trip.

We return to dry land and take the 200 bus again to La Ciotat station. Just one stop on the TER train separates us from Cassis. Just enough time to drop our bags at the hotel, and we’ll head to the lighthouse to enjoy the sunset. The town is surrounded on one side by the Calanques National Park and on the other by the cliffs of Cap Canaille. The natural spectacle offered by Cassis is breathtaking.

→ You can find our visit to La Ciotat here and our visit to Cassis here.

Early in the morning, we take advantage of the bright sunshine that only Provence can offer to take an electric boat trip through the calanques. There are several routes to choose from: 3, 5, 8 or 9 calanques. Even if you opt for the shortest trip, you’ll be amazed by what you see. The Calanques National Park is a real gem. With its crystal-clear coves and sheer cliffs, the coastline stretches for miles. Port-Miou, Port-Pin and finally En-Vau, one of the most breathtaking calanques.

Back in the port of Cassis, there is no shortage of restaurants. The menus feature freshly caught seafood. Let yourself be tempted by the daily specials. After lunch on the terrace, we take the M1 bus to the station, where we catch another TER train to Toulon.

We stop at this important port in the south of France to try one of the region’s most unusual attractions: the Faron cable car. In just a few minutes, we reach the 584-metre-high Mont Faron, which overlooks the bay of Toulon. On a clear day, you can see the Var coastline stretching all the way to Giens and the Hyères Islands. If you have a little time, there are several hikes you can do from the cable car. We recommend taking the last cable car down so you can enjoy the sunset from the panoramic platform.

→ You can find the route we took here et here.

On this fifth day, we suggest you hop on the 878 bus heading towards Saint-Tropez. But we won’t be going there straight away. On the way, the bus will drop us off at La Londe-les-Maures where we will pick up some bikes. We were advised to visit the Domaine du Jasson, an olive oil producer. The estate is open to the public, and there is a lovely shop where you can do some shopping.

Back in the saddle, we head back to the town centre for lunch, then on to the port of La Londe-les-Maures. Mostly safe, we follow the Promenade des Annamites, which is very pleasant in the shade of a beautiful avenue of umbrella pines. At the port, we turn right to dip our feet in the water at Miramar beach. If you have a little time, you can follow the Mediterranean coastline on the coastal path to see the old salt marshes of Hyères. On the other side, you can leave your bike at the port and walk to Fort de Brégançon via the wild beaches of Estagnol or Pellegrin. Or simply enjoy some sunbathing on the warm sand. That’s nice too, isn’t it?

After returning our rental bikes, we take bus 878 to the terminus: Saint-Tropez. Once again, the bus ride is an invitation to contemplation. Travelling along winding roads through the Maures mountains, the 1.5-hour journey has never seemed so short. Then, in the distance, the iconic yellow bell tower rises above the ochre rooftops. There’s no doubt about it, we’ve arrived in Saint-Trop’.

→ Find our bike ride here

Once a fishing village, then an icon of luxury and glamour, Saint-Tropez has retained all its authenticity despite its bling-bling image. To enjoy it to the full, visit during the off-season when there are fewer tourists and lose yourself in the narrow streets beyond the port. The two coves of La Glaye and La Ponche beaches are must-sees that we recommend visiting at the end of the day when the colours over the gulf are at their most beautiful. Take the coastal path to the marine cemetery before climbing up to the old citadel, now a marine museum (very interesting). In bad weather, or if you simply enjoy culture, you can also visit the Annonciade Museum or the Gendarmerie and Cinema Museum.

After lunch, despite the slightly gloomy weather (it happens, but it’s no reason to be discouraged, as there is always something to see and do on the French Riviera), we board a shuttle bus that connects Saint-Tropez and Sainte-Maxime. It’s a quick way to reach the other side of the Gulf of Saint-Tropez while enjoying the scenery. From here, we take a final bus to Les Issambres, where we will spend the night. With our feet almost in the water.

→ Download our walk in Saint-Tropez here 

When we wake up, we hop on our bikes for a ride in the fresh air towards the Gaillarde valley, above the campsite. This unspoilt natural site offers superb views of Les Issambres, the Estérel mountains and the Gulf of Saint-Tropez. On a clear day, you can even see the peaks of the Southern Alps peeking out. In winter, the mimosas are in bloom. Several trails (for bikes and on foot) allow you to discover this exceptional natural heritage, so make the most of it!

After all that effort, you’ll agree that a wellness break is well deserved. Take bus 876 from the campsite to the San Peïre district, where you’ll find the Thalasso Spa des Issambres. Enjoy two hours of pure relaxation in salt water drawn from just a few metres away. The water’s properties are preserved to offer high-quality treatments in an art deco-style glass-roofed pool.

If, like us, the call of the Mediterranean is stronger than anything else, we recommend taking a walk along the coastal path, the old customs officers’ path, at the end of the day. This 8km route (which you can do in its entirety or in sections) runs alongside coves, creeks and steps carved into the rock and is one of our favourites. You can even discover the most beautiful Gallo-Roman fishpond, classified as a Historic Monument. And in the evening, when the warm lights begin to fade, we suggest you sit back, gaze at the Estérel massif as it glows bright red, and let yourself be lulled by the lapping of the waves. What a wonderful way to end the week!