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[SLOW EXPERIENCE IN PROVENCE]

From the gates of Haute Provence to Moustiers-Sainte-Marie

❤️ Provence is an ode to reverie, contemplation, wellness and culinary delights, home to a seductive variety of landscapes with endless opportunities for adventure. And of course, soft mobility is the perfect way to get back in touch with life’s simple pleasures and savour Provence’s many facets while limiting your carbon footprint! Welcome to part five of our series of slow tours, entirely doable on foot or by public transport (bus and train), for the optimal carbon-neutral travel experience.

This 5-day slow tour, at the gateway to the beautiful Haute-Provence area, weaves subtle ties between spa waters, character-filled villages and stunning natural scenery. From Digne-les-Bains to Moustiers-Sainte-Marie, via Manosque, Aix-en-Provence and Gréoux-les-Bains, the journey winds its way through preserved, intimate landscapes swathed in natural beauty. A rough and often demanding diamond, bathed in Provence’s world-unique light, the countryside tells a story as rich and intricate as that of the towns along the way. A scent of lavender floats between the valleys, white stone lights up the facades and every twist and turn unveils a fragment of history. This is the perfect escapade for people who love to go at their own pace, feel the wind in their hair and embrace the surprises the journey has to offer.

Day 1: Delightful Digne-les-Bains

Our tour begins in Digne-les-Bains, tucked between alpine scenery and scents of wild thyme. The town awakens slowly, cradled by the murmur of the river Bléone and warm light caressing the surrounding peaks.

We recommend starting your day with a peaceful walk along the river’s edge to a personality-packed site: the house of Alexandra David-Neel. This intrepid explorer, writer and pioneer spent her final days in Digne. Now converted into a museum, her former home offers a fascinating window onto her travels through Asia, instilled with spirituality, freedom and a quest for meaning. The tour, prompting hushed tones, invites visitors to delve into the story of this exceptional woman.

After the tour, we popped over the road to the Nusa Café, an insider’s address steeped in an intimate, bohemian atmosphere. You’ll find colourful, creative, tasty and 100% vegetarian dishes served there, perfect for a healthy lunch.

In the afternoon, we left the town centre in slow mode on the Sentier Caguenard, a signposted trail winding its way through woods and rocks. The trails leads upwards to the Musée-Promenade, a unique venue where art, geology and nature strike up a fascinating outdoor conversation. Offering a seductive blend of ancient fossils, contemporary installations and belvederes over the landscapes of Digne, this interpretation centre – part of the UNESCO Global Geopark network – is an ode to contemplation and discovery.

→ You’ll find the GPX track for our Digne tour here.

Tips and top addresses for Day 1:

  • Getting to Digne from Aix or Marseille: The LER 66 bus drops you off at Digne coach station.
  • Maison Alexandra David-Neel: open from 10 am to 6 pm. Entry to the museum is free, but the visit to Alexandra David-Neel’s house is by guided tour only.
  • Musée-Promenade: open from 9-12 am and 2-5.30 pm. Last admission at 4.30 pm. Price: adults €8, children €5.
  • Places to stay in Digne-les-Bains: the Hôtel de Provence offers freshly-refurbished rooms with delightful views over the maze of lanes crisscrossing Digne.
  • Eating out in Digne-les-Bains: Nusa Café, serving colourful, 100% vegetarian dishes. Bleu Cerise in the town centre offers a varied menu with something for every taste. Le P’tit Thai if you’re an Asian food fan.

Day 2: Magnificent Manosque

Welcome to Manosque, the homeland of Jean Giono, where our day kicked off with a wander round the little old lanes snaking their way through the town centre, shaded from the already-baking sunshine. We decided to follow the “Manosque et son histoire” trail, one of the delightful tours curated by the Manosque Tourist Office, to make sure we didn’t miss any of the town’s must-see sights. Among them, Porte Soubeyran, the only remainder of the ancient ramparts, proudly stands guard over the town. Further on, Eglise Saint-Sauveur tempted us to linger longer inside its cool stone walls before heading on to the Médiathèque d’Herbès media library tucked inside a former 18th-century mansion, for a relaxing literary break.

After our morning in town, we hopped on bus number 14 at the Saint-Charles bus stop to the L’Occitane en Provence factory, situated on the outskirts of town (you can cycle there if you’re feeling sporty!). The immersive, sensory tour offers a deep dive into the wings of this iconic cosmetics brand, including the story of its founder, its artisan expertise, Mediterranean garden and fascinating insights into how the various products – all inspired by regional plants – are made.

As the day drew to a close, it was time to continue our journey to Aix-en-Provence on bus number 65 from Manosque coach station. The timing was perfect: we dropped off our luggage before settling down for a relaxing drink at one of the many terraces lining the town’s little squares. We were spoilt for choice: Place de l’Hôtel de Ville, Place des Augustins… What a great start to the evening!

→ You’ll find the GPX track for Day 2 here.

Tips and top addresses for Day 2:

  • Getting to Manosque from Digne-les-Bains: take the Zou 483 bus. The journey last about an hour and a half.
  • Guided tour of the L’Occitane en Provence factory (subject to prior booking): adults €6, free for under 16s. Tours available 7/7 from April to December and Monday to Saturday in other months. Tour length: 1 hour. Book here.
  • Eating out in Manosque: The restaurant Les Incontournables showcases a short but beautifully curated locavore menu featuring locally-sourced produce.
  • Manosque <> Aix-en-Provence: Bus number 65. Journey 1 hour approx.

Day 3: Astounding Aix-en-Provence

Aix-en-Provence’s elegant architecture, refreshing fountains and discreetly animated little squares offered a dazzling start to the day. As we walked in the footsteps of Cezanne, the town unveiled its discreet charm, overflowing with artists’ studios, shaded terraces and fragrant markets. The air seems lighter here, as if borne on a breath of art and sunshine. We wandered from the elegant Cours Mirabeau lined with plane trees to the town’s other iconic squares and hidden gems, including the unmissable Pavillon de Vendôme gardens…

Sie sind zum ersten Mal in Aix? Dann haben wir folgende Vorschläge für einen Besuch der „Stadt der 1000 Brunnen“:

Visiting Aix-en-Provence for the first time? Here’s our list of tour suggestions for the “town of a thousand fountains”, according to your taste:

1.    Sightseeing tour of Aix-en-Provence’s historic quarter on foot. You can go it alone (just pick up a map from the Tourist Office) or opt for a specialist-interest tour – whatever takes your fancy. For example, how about an arts & crafts discovery tour or dipping into the latest exhibitions?

2.    If you’re a foodie who enjoys discovering places through local goodies and culinary specialities, opt for a 1.5-hour gourmet stroll with Thomas (Tuesdays, Wednesdays, Thursdays, Friday and Saturdays at 9 am) or a longer, 3.5-hour stroll (Tuesdays, Thursdays, Fridays and Saturdays at 11 am). Find out more.

3.    Did you know that the hills surrounding Aix-en-Provence harbour some of the Provence-Alpes-Cote d’Azur region’s finest vineyards? Enjoy an accessible Wine & Vine electric bicycle tour (18 km – 2.5 hours) winding up in the best possible way – with wine tasting!

After our discovery day in Aix-en-Provence we headed back to the coach station to catch bus number 67 to Gréoux, for the next stage of our slow trip.

→ You’ll find the GPX track for our Aix tour here.

Tips and top addresses for Day 3:

  • Purchase the Aix-en-Provence City Pass to enjoy a range of discounts and free admissions. Find out more.
  • Places to stay in Aix-en-Provence: the Hôtel Escaletto, a delightful hotel bursting with Mediterranean charm.
  • Luggage locker available at the Pineapple Store in the underground walkway on Avenue Victor Hugo.
  • Our top eateries in Aix-en-Provence: brace yourself, there are plenty! Some of our favourites are Chez Charlotte, Grenache, La Brulerie Richelme, Les Fils à Maman and Girafe.
  • Aix-en-Provence <> Gréoux: Bus number 67. Journey 1 hour approx

Day 4: Genteel Gréoux

We began our discovery tour of Gréoux-les-Bains with a foray into the old quarter, on the interactive trail curated by the town council. This fun route winds its way across cobbled lanes, ancient fountains and typical old facades to the Château des Templiers, standing guard over the village from its rocky outcrop since the 13th century.

World-famed for its soothing spa waters, Gréoux is an ode to relaxation. In the afternoon, we decided to join the regular visitors to the resort and head to the Thermal Baths for a delicious wellness session – the perfect way to savour our soon-to-be-over stay in Provence and a great option on cold or rainy days. Not to be missed at all costs: the astonishing kaolin bath. This milky floating pool eases away arthritis pain, especially in the hands.

Relaxed and rejuvenated, it was time for us to get back on a bus at a leisurely pace for our final day in Moustiers-Sainte-Marie, perched between blue skies and jagged cliffs.

→ You’ll find the GPX track for Day 4 here.

Tips and top addresses for Day 4:

  • Places to stay in Gréoux-les-Bains: Warm and contemporary, with welcoming staff catering to your every whim, Villa Castellane is one of this Provençal village’s top addresses. Ideally located opposite the baths, it is the perfect place for a night (or two) in Gréoux.
  • Eating out in Gréoux-les-Bains: CALA Manger Boire at the entrance to Gréoux, or Café Colombero.
  • Gréoux-les-Bains Thermal Baths: €52 per person for admission to the spa amenities, or €80 per person for special treatments and relaxing massages. Click here for more information on your visit to the Gréoux Spa.

Day 5: Mesmerizing Moustiers, a stylish end to our journey

Set clinging to ornately sculpted cliffs, Moustiers-Sainte-Marie resembles a mineral gem suspended over the stunning Verdon Canyon. With its ochre rooftops and steep lanes, the village appears to have stepped straight out of another era, poised like a gift rewarding the end of our journey.

In the morning, we suggest following in our footsteps with a visit to the Musée de la Faïence, retracing the history of the exceptional craft expertise at the origin of the village’s renown from the 17th century onwards. The museum showcases ancient, intricately worked objects, as well as more modern creations testifying to Moustiers’ dedication to upholding its traditions. And of course, you’ll find a myriad of little earthenware shops in the village centre.

If you fancy taking to the heights, we suggest two walks. The first, short but intense, leads up to Notre-Dame de Beauvoir chapel, along a steep, cobbled path (that can get a bit slippery) offering sublime panoramic vistas over the village rooftops. Seasoned walkers will definitely want to tackle the Sentier Botanique de Tréguier botanical footpath (around 2 hours return) for a deep dive into the local flora and fauna. The viewpoint at the end of the path unveils breathtaking views over the vast, turquoise expanse of Sainte-Croix lake sparkling in the distance.

Keep your eyes peeled – you might even spot a colony of griffon cultures nesting in the dizzy cliffs. What better way to wrap up your stay in style?

As the day draws to a close, take time to just sit and savour the moment as you gaze out over the vast Verdon before heading back to the village for your last evening. Pure magic!

→ You’ll find the GPX track for our Moustiers tour here.

Tips and top addresses for Day 5:

  • Places to stay in Moustiers-Sainte-Marie: La Bonne Auberge hotel, handily located at the village entrance.
  • Our fave foodie addresses in Moustiers-Sainte-Marie: La Bonne Auberge restaurant, La Part des Anges (lovely terrace)       and Le Gaudineto, great menu and pretty view over the village.
  • For a sweet snack: homemade ice creams at Etoile Givrée (tested and approved – twice!).
  • Musée de la Faïence earthenware museum: Price €5 per person. Opening times vary according to the season. Find out more.