From wineyards of the Rhône Vallet to the Camargue

Our adventure kicked off in the town of Orange, easily accessible by train from Marseille. After renting an electric bike from Nature Bike Provence, we let our senses guide us along a delightful, 32-kilometre loop on secondary roads lined with vineyards. This lush and beautiful wine-growing area is particularly ideal for cycling, with plenty of views over the hillsides on the way, plus, of course, the sumptuous sight of Mont Ventoux throughout.

We stopped off briefly in Courthézon before heading on to the village of Châteauneuf-du-Pape in Vaucluse, renowned for its excellent wines. If you fancy learning more, don’t miss a visit to the fascinating Vinothèque (remember to book ahead).

After lunch out on the sunny terrace of Le Comptoir de la Mère Germaine, we were primed and ready to climb up to the ruins of the papal castle (superb views and you can do the climb on foot or by bike), before hopping back onto the loop and returning to Orange.

Tour of Orange

We decided to swap out our bikes for walking shoes and take the pulse of Orange – the third largest town in Vaucluse – on foot. Nicknamed the “City of Princes”, its monumental Roman Theatre nestling at the foot of Saint-Eutrope hill, measuring 103 metres in length and 37 metres in height, is frankly breathtaking. What’s more, it’s one of only three theatres in the entire world still featuring its original stage wall; the others are located in Turkey and Syria. You can enjoy strolling round the theatre during the day or lapping up the atmosphere at night during the Odyssées Sonores multimedia shows. The highlight for us was the new VR experience projecting visitors into the golden age of theatre.

Another must-see ancient monument: the Arc de Triomphe. These two monuments are both on the UNESCO World Heritage list, so you can easily see why Orange is a must-do for heritage lovers. The historic quarter with its shaded terraces is fabulous too, and its very pleasant heart can easily be explored on foot.

→ Click here to view the cycle route.

You may have read about it already in our micro-adventure “From Occitan Provence to Mont Ventoux”, which you can find here: Avignon is a history-packed town. If you’re visiting for the first time, we obviously recommend touring the magnificent, world-famed Palais des Papes (Popes’ Palace). And of course, Pont Saint-Bénézet, aka the iconic Pont d’Avignon. All the must-see sights are easily accessible on foot and can be done in half a day.

If you’re already familiar with Avignon’s classic attractions, why not devote a half (or full) day to culture and the arts. For example, with a visit to the Collection Lambert (contemporary art), the Musée Angladon (painting) or Musée Louis Vouland (decorative arts). The Avignon Tourist Office also hosts three specialist-interest walking tours inviting visitors to discover different facets of Avignon: a classic tour focusing on the town’s Papal past, an art and private mansions tour (some are well hidden) and a delightful stroll through the Avignon of yesteryear.

→ You’ll find the Avignon walking tour itinerary here.

If you’re enjoying a short break, Avignon is an ideal base for exploring the Via Rhôna cycle route. For this 2-day cycle tour, we opted for Véloc’Sud: they deliver to the address of your choice, allowing you to begin your adventure – like us – on the doorstep of your hotel, for the ultimate stress-free start to the day! Before leaving the episcopal town, stop off at Chez Lisette, a favourite local bakery offering a great range of Provencal specialities – fougasse, fritta, brassado and pan bagnat – that promise to tickle your tastebuds at lunch time.

After crossing the short bridge leading over the Rhône River, peaceful lanes lead to the cycle route marked in green and white.

For this day trip, we recommend two different options: Beaucaire from Avignon on the Via Rhôna (around forty kilometres on mainly flat terrain). This route passes through the charming village of Aramon. If you fancy a slightly sportier experience, branch off onto the Pont du Gard greenway in the neighbouring Gard area when you arrive in Montfrin. A genuine feast for the eyes, the Pont du Gard – the world’s highest Roman aqueduct – is an ancient architectural masterpiece and UNESCO World Heritage Site. You won’t have far to pedal until the bridge unveils itself. And the wow factor is guaranteed! If you want to take a leaf out of our book, enjoy a picnic lunch at the foot of this stone giant, or a dip in the Gardon to cool off before heading back along the greenway to Montfrin, then Beaucaire.

To wind up our sporty day out, we fancied treating ourselves to a little pampering at a chic country house. And we found just the thing! Attentive staff, a swimming pool surrounded by majestic cypress trees and absolute peace and quiet… Welcome to the Domaine des Clos, a gorgeous address nestled in the heart of the vineyards, perfect for a relaxing break for body and soul, complete with a delightful bohemian touch. A definitive fave!

→ If, like us, you’re always up for a challenge, you’ll find the GPX track for the third day here, including the detour via the Pont du Gard.

After your 2-day adventure on the ViaRhôna, how about a walking tour of Arles? Here too, the foremost sights are within easy reach of each other and Arles really lends itself to strolling. If you fancy a novel tour, opt for an electric tricycle (various tours of different lengths) for a new angle on the city, nicknamed the “Little Rome of Gaul”.

An ancient Roman city with a rich heritage (Roman Amphitheatre, Theatre, Cryptoporticus), Arles is also an arty hub, home to many galleries, museums and artists, and the stage for the must-do Rencontres de la Photographie photo festival, taking place every summer. The city buzzes throughout the peak season, when its magnificent monuments are transformed into art and culture venues. The rest of the year has plenty to offer too of course: the Fondation Van Gogh and Galerie Lee Ufan are two of our favourite highlights.

This former abandoned railway site has now been transformed into a genuine artistic and cultural crossroads. You’ll need to pay to see the exhibitions, but access to the panoramic terrace is free of charge.

→ You’ll find our Arles walking itinerary here.

How about staying on for an extra couple of days to explore the iconic landscapes around Arles, between Camargue and Plaine de La Crau? Here are our two cycle touring suggestions:

The first leads you to Etang de Vaccarès lake (50 km), through the stunning and varied scenery of Camargue (agriculture, rice growing, wetlands, Giraud salt marshes, etc.). Taste wine at Domaine de Valériole and dine at Le Mazet du Vaccarès, complete with breathtaking views over the lake. Opt for a horse ride at Domaine de Méjanes to complete your immersion in Camargue, before returning to Arles.

The second option follows the Via Rhôna cycle route to Aigues-Mortes (55 km), via Saint-Gilles and Gallician. This route also unveils a plethora of magnificent landscapes (rice fields, lakes, reed beds, bulls and wild horses) leading to Aigues-Mortes, famed for its towers, ramparts, and delicious “vin des sables” wine. This time, you might like to stay over at a traditional farmhouse in the beating heart of the Camargue Regional Nature Reserve. Alternatively, you can hop on a regional express train (TER – easy with your bike) back to Arles.