Places visited
Martigues
Aix-en-Provence
Îles du Frioul
Aubagne
Parc de Saint-Pons
Circuit: explore around Marseille
With the Pass Intégral Explore Aix-MarseilleFor this first day, head westwards for Martigues nicknamed the « Venice of Provence ». Climb aboard the train in the Gare Saint-Charles station and choose a seat on the left-hand side of the carriage, as you face forwards, to get an incredible view over the sea on this trip along the Côte Bleue. When you get to Martigues, take a bus into downtown Martigues and the Quartier de l’Île which, as its name indicates, is on a little island lined on either side by the Baussengue and Galiffet canals. Wander along the typically Provencal streets of this historic quarter and fall under the charm of the picture postcard setting of the Miroir aux Oiseaux. The picturesque little harbour is both photogenic and lovely to look at, with its « pointus » fishing boats and the houses – a rainbow of colours – which inspired painters such as Dufy, Ziem or Delacroix. For your lunch break, head for the Brasserie L’Endroit to try the local speciality, pâtes à la poutargue (pasta with mullet roe paste). It’s actually a pocket of dried mullet roe which is known as « Mediterranean caviar ». After having eaten your fill, cross the Baussengue canal and go to the Musée Ziem, where you can peacefully digest in front of a landscape by Félix Ziem or Raoul Dufy. When you come out of the museum, walk 200 metres to the fine sand of the Plage de Ferrières beach or the Théâtre de Verdure, two perfect places to relax opposite the Etang de Berre. And then it’s back on the bus and off to the station to get your rain for Marseille. Remember to get a seat on the sea side!
This time, head north for the symbolic town of Aix-en-Provence, the town of Paul Cézanne. You can walk from the bus station to the imposing Fontaine de la Rotonde in under 10 minutes and then peacefully up the Cours Mirabeau. Enjoy a coffee on the terrace of a café or discover the textile and crafts market on the Cours every Tuesday, Thursday and Saturday until 1 pm. If you prefer more cultural visits, go straight to Hôtel de Caumont. This magnificent mansion has become an art centre whose architecture, decor and gardens plunge visitors into the heart of 18th-century nobility. For art enthusiasts, the Musée Granet, another of the town’s cultural institutions is a mere 5-minute walk away and home to a vast collection of ancient, modern and contemporary artworks including some of Cézanne’s paintings. Enter the historic heart of Aix-en-Provence and explore the narrow streets following your nose in an authentically Provencal setting. As you go across Place Richelme, you’ll probably come across the stalls of the lively food and fish markets. Next, go up Rue Vauvenargues and you’ll come out on Place de l’Hôtel de Ville. Continue to the left towards Place des Cardeurs, where you’ll be certain to find something to suit you for your lunch break. From there, it’s a 15-minute walk to the bus station and your bus back to Marseille.
When you arrive in Marseille, head for the Vieux-Port, just two metro stops away. And when you are on the Vieux-Port, all aboard! Take one of the sea shuttles for the Frioul Islands. Make the most of this boat trip to enjoy the view of Marseille from the Vieux-Port and the bay. First stop the famous Château d’If to dive into the story of this fortress as you follow in the footsteps of the mythical Edmond Dantès, the Count of Monte-Cristo. After a tour of about one hour tour, climb aboard the boat again for just a few minutes and get off in the little harbour of Le Frioul. Here, you have two islands to choose from: Pomègues and Ratonneau. If you go left, you’ll cross over the dyke to explore Pomègues, as you follow the signposted trail which winds across the island from viewpoints to wild creeks. As to Ratonneau, you’re already on it! To discover it better, follow the path on the right-hand side of the harbour. You’ll soon reach the Plage de Morgiret or Saint-Estève beaches, which are under 20 minutes away on foot. Enjoy the sunset on the island or your boat and, in this twilit atmosphere, see Marseille, its Vieux-Port and La Bonne-Mère light up gently at nightfall.
For the third and last day, we suggest you start with a morning in Aubagne, which can be reached by train in under 20 minutes from the Gare Saint-Charles. When you get there, it’s a 10-minute walk to the Poteries Ravel factory and shop, which has been a pottery institution for over 180 years and is well worth a visit. Walk up to the historic centre of the town, past the house where Marcel Pagnol was born. You can visit it and then take some time to wander around the town’s pretty little streets. For lunch, head for the Sainte-Baume Natural Regional Park on a bus from Aubagne station to Gémenos. It’ll take you 20 minutes to get to the Parc de Saint-Pons and make the most of the picnic tables available at the entrance to the estate. Don’t forget to pick up your waste! When you’ve finished eating, enter the lush decor of this magical place, famous for the natural and cultural wealth it contains. Nestled at the foot of the Massif de la Sainte-Baume, the Parc de Saint-Pons has easily accessible walks in a fairytale atmosphere, with hundred-year-old trees, waterfalls and historical wonders.