Palettes Of Light: Following the Great Masters in Provence & Côte d'Azur

The capital of the French Riviera, swathed in a resolutely Italian atmosphere, Nice was an endless source of fascination for the 20th century’s master painters. After spending the winter there in 1916-1917, Henri Matisse (1869-1954) resolved to never leave. Today, the Fauvism movement’s flagship works are on show at the Musée Matisse, in the town’s Cimiez quarter. The Musée Marc Chagall, a national museum, testifies to the extraordinary sensitivity of this painter born in Belorussia, inspired by Jewish traditions, the Bible and love… In addition to its artistic wealth, Nice promises visitors a moving travel experience, from its authentic historic quarter crisscrossed with old lanes to the thousand and one shades of the flower market on Cours Saleya, endless vistas over the Big Blue from the mythical Promenade des Anglais and flavourful local cuisine.

A pearl of the Côte d’Azur, the medieval hilltop village of Mougins promises love at first sight. Its little squares, old lanes winding round the belltower and genteel lifestyle seduced Pablo Picasso (1881-1973), who lived there from 1961 until his death. Today, the history of Mougins and that of art still go hand in hand. The heart of the historic quarter is now home to the FAMM (Femmes Artistes du Musée de Mougins), Europe’s first museum dedicated to female artists. Encircled by its legendary ramparts, suspended over the Mediterranean Sea, Antibes is an absolute paradise for strollers, with its quaint streets, heartwarming markets and glassblowing workshops. The highlight of the town tour is the Musée Picasso, showcasing the master’s paintings, drawings and ceramics. April ushers in the buzzing Antibes Art Fair, a must-do benchmark of modern and contemporary art, design and crafts.

Saint-Tropez… Once a little fishing port, this legendary village stands at the gateway to both Provence and the Riviera. Its name alone conjures up visions of beauty, freedom and the stuff dreams are made of. The iconic Brigitte Bardot springs to mind of course; the stunning star of Roger Vadim’s film And God Created Woman, released in 1956. And the luxury yachts moored opposite Café Sénéquier, a genuine local institution. But Saint-Tropez is also one of the cradles of the early 20th century avant-garde art movement and the spiritual home of Pointillist Paul Signac. After his arrival in 1892 on board his yacht Olympia, Signac fostered a modern art community in the village, featuring such illustrious names as Cross, Matisse, Derain and Marquet. Today, their works are on show at the Musée de l’Annonciade, set inside the former chapel of the White Penitents.

A town of art and history, and the epitome of Provençal elegance, Aix-en-Provence’s undeniable charm never fails to delight. From fountains to little squares and sumptuous old mansions, everything here evokes refinement and authenticity. Nicknamed “Little Versailles”, the history of Aix is intrinsically tied to that of local-born artist Paul Cezanne (1839-1906), the father of Cubism and founder of modern art. Several venues tell his powerful story: the Atelier des Lauves, his last studio, Jas de Bouffan, his family home and Bibémus quarry, a rocky plateau where he loved to paint. But Cezanne’s depictions of Mont Sainte-Victoire – a place that never ceased to inspire him – perhaps constitute his most iconic works. Enjoy a tour of the Musée Granet to admire his oeuvre. Another must-do: the Hôtel de Caumont hosts exhibitions dedicated to the greatest names in the history of art.

The capital of the beautiful Alpilles, a natural gem where limestone rock rubs shoulders with garrigue and vines, Saint-Rémy-de-Provence boasts a rich architectural heritage. The town’s café terraces come alive from the first days of spring, in an ode to Provence’s delicious lifestyle. To the south of the town, a stone’s throw from the Glanum archaeological site, lies Saint-Paul de Mausole, an old monastery adorned with blooming gardens. It was here, in the former asylum, that Vincent Van Gogh was interned for a year, from 1889-1890, after cutting off his ear. Inspired by the intense quality of light of the Alpilles, he painted an impressive 150 canvases there, including Starry Night, Wheatfield and Irises. Loyal to its original vocation, Saint-Paul de Mausole is now the venue for a cultural centre.

The illustrious ancient city of Arles abounds with Roman and medieval monuments including an iconic Amphitheatre, Roman Theatre and Saint-Trophime church and cloister, all UNESCO World Heritage sites. Fascinated by Provence’s quality of light, Van Gogh set up home there in 1888 and went on to paint his first series of sunflowers, as well as Café Terrace at Night and the very-famous Starry Night, depicting Arles viewed from the banks of the Rhône. The Van Gogh walking tour, a signposted itinerary crossing the town, invites art fans to visit the various locations depicted by Van Gogh, with reproductions of his works on show at each stop-off. Last but not least, the Van Gogh Foundation in Arles’ historic quarter celebrates his foremost masterpieces and explores his influence on contemporary creation.

Fascinated by the landscapes of Aix, Paul Cezanne was equally mesmerized by the city of Marseille, and especially the Estaque quarter. Located to the north of the city, it was still a little fishing village when the artist first stayed there in the mid 1860s, during which time he painted The Sea at L’Estaque and The Gulf of Marseille Seen From L’Estaque. Guigou, Monticelli, Renoir, Derain, Braque, Dufy, Friez, Macke, Marquet… Other master painters, including artists from the Provençal School, fell in love with the site in turn. Their works are now part of the magnificent collection on show at the Musée Regards de Provence, dedicated to paintings of Marseille, Provence and the Mediterranean from the 18th century to current day. Set at the foot of La Major Cathedral, facing the Mucem exhibition centre, the museum is an invitation to contemplate the bay and sparkling sea beyond – an endless source of inspiration for artists.