Provence in style : an art & deco experience

A Roman city overflowing with ancient Roman and medieval ruins, now part of UNESCO World Heritage, Arles has always remained fiercely attached to its local customs. The proof of the pudding? The many bullfighting and folklore-themed festivities that pace life in the capital of Camargue from May to September, including the Easter Feria, Rice Feria and Arles Fair. Moreover, the city upholds a very special relationship with its traditional dress codes. In the 19th century, at a time when regional costumes were gradually fading out of style throughout France, the women of Arles continued to sport them with pride. In fact, world-famed fashion designer Christian Lacroix, who was born in Arles, has always been greatly inspired by them! Discover this fascinating story at the Fragonard Fashion & Costume Museum, tucked away in Arles’ historic quarter.

From Arles, you’ll be heading northwards across the rocky landscapes and garrigue of the Alpilles Regional Nature Reserve (merci de corriger le fr, ce n’est pas un parc national je crois) to L’Isle-sur-la-Sorgue. A thriving drapery industry blossomed here in the 17th century, soon to be followed by silk and textiles. The many waterwheels adorning the emerald waters of the river Sorgue offers strollers a constant reminder of this illustrious manufacturing past. And that’s not all… Local brands such as Brun de Vian-Tiran continue to perpetuate this time-honoured know-how, with their top-quality throws, rugs and scarves crafted with natural materials. When the textile industry waned, L’Isle-sur-la-Sorgue embraced a new vocation from the 1960s onwards. Today, it is Europe’s third largest antiques hub after London and Saint-Ouen, attracting flocks of avid bargain hunters from the world over every year!

After a final meander along the banks of the Sorgue, it’s time to head to Saint-Rémy-de-Provence, the Alpilles’ largest town brimming with typical Provençal charm. Held every Saturday morning, its farmers’ market, showcasing stalls piled high with fruit, vegetables, charcuterie and cheeses, is an ode to colour and fragrance. A labyrinth of narrow lanes and little squares, the historic quarter invites you to explore another facet of Provence’s traditional textiles courtesy of the illustrious Souleaido boutique, the only remaining manufacturer of Provençal printed cottons. The first shipments of “indienne” fabrics arrived at the port of Marseille in the 16th century. These brightly-coloured cottons, printed with flowers or birds, met with immediate and resounding success. Later on, Provence’s artisans learned to manufacture these beautiful fabrics originating from the East. The heir to this astounding tradition, Souleaido, founded in 1939, continues to craft clothing, bags and accessories instilled with a powerful Provençal identity.