Canal Carpentras Pernes Les Fontaines Hellolaroux

[SLOW EXPERIENCE IN PROVENCE]

From Occitan Provence to Ventoux

❤️ Provence is an ode to contemplation, wellness and culinary delights, home to a seductive variety of landscapes with endless opportunities for adventure. And of course, soft mobility is the perfect way to get back in touch with life’s simple pleasures and savour Provence’s many facets. What’s more, it’s good for the planet! Welcome to the first part of our series of four micro-adventures, entirely doable on foot, by bike or on public transport (bus and train), for the optimal eco-friendly travel experience.

This cycling and walking route celebrates the iconic landscapes of Provence and vine-laden, stony foothills of the world-famed Mont Ventoux. From Pont-Saint-Esprit to Avignon via Carpentras, across the Rhône River and ancient Comtat Venaissin area, it promises an alluring combination of history, culture and nature. Ready to roll?

Day 1: Cycle tour around Pont-Saint-Esprit

When you arrive at Pont-Saint-Esprit station, we recommend renting an electric bike from Cycling Generation to explore the town. Located at the crossroads of three French “départements”, this area promises a delightful adventure on the peaceful roads of Provence. You can choose between two loops depending on your preferences and cycling abilities: the Boucle Spiripontaine (easy, 2 hours) and the Boucle de la Chartreuse de Valbonne (average difficulty, 3 hours)

Must-sees include: the Romanesque chapel of Sainte-Agnès in Saint-Paulet-de-Caisson and medieval villages of Salazac and Saint-Julien-de-Peyrolas. But the highlight of the tour is hidden away in an ancient forest… A short and easy downhill stretch unveils the Chartreuse de Valbonne, boasting a very unusual architecture with multi-coloured tiles reminiscent of those usually found in Burgundy. Surrounded by vineyards, this former Carthusian monastery, now a listed monument, was founded in the 13th century. A genuine haven of peace, contemplation, relaxation and history, it is an absolute must.

On the way back to Pont-Saint-Esprit, we crossed a medieval bridge that took 44 years to build. The opposite bank of the Rhône River offers sumptuous views over Église Saint-Saturnin. We rounded off the day with a visit to the Musée d’Art Sacré (Museum of Sacred Art), also a listed monument, before hopping back on the train to Avignon, the “City of Popes”, for a well-earned rest.

You can download the GPX track for this day excursion here.

Domaine de la Chartreuse de Valbonne

Tips and top addresses for Day 1:

Avignon <> Pont-Saint-Esprit: 30 minutes by train
Cycling Generation offers high-quality electric bikes (5 mins on foot from the station). Closed Sundays and Mondays.
Chartreuse de Valbonne entry price: €5. You can purchase a snack and grape juice on site and leave your bike at Reception during your tour.

Days 2 and 3: Tour of Avignon and Villeneuve-lez-Avignon, the Bohemian

Villeneuve-lez-Avignon, the Bohemian

After collecting our bikes from Provence Bike, we headed off to Villeneuve-lez-Avignon. The cycle path straddling the Rhône River offers a tranquil meander. Culture is top of the list today, with a visit to the Chartreuse du Val de Bénédiction. This impressive construction, surrounded by elegant Provencal abodes, is one of the largest Carthusian monasteries in existence – a remarkable site that exhales spirituality. Don’t miss the painting by Matteo Giovannetti: a brilliant pre-Renaissance painter who served under Pope Clement VI. His work can be admired at the Palais des Papes in Avignon, as well as at the monastery’s “chapel of frescoes”.

The tour continued just down the road, with a combined visit to the remarkable gardens of the Abbaye Saint-André (open 10 am-6 pm, closed Mondays) and Fort Saint-André (9 am-1 pm and 2-6 pm, every day). Simply iconic!

This proud fort, resembling a curtain of rock, stands on the heights of Villeneuve-lez-Avignon. Originally part of King Philip the Fair’s rebellion against the all-encompassing papacy, the fort was remodelled over the centuries, becoming a prison then a military hospital before falling into disuse. It became a listed monument in the early 20th century. The view from its round tower (very windy when the mistral wind is gusting) over the plain of Avignon stretches as far as the eye can see and it’s easy to understand why this strategic location seduced the King of France. The countrified gardens of the Abbaye Saint-André also offer a beautiful window onto the Palais des Papes. You’ll even find a café there from April to September, perfect for a peaceful sit-down in the soft silence of the gardens.

Good to know: The above sites are holders of the “Accueil Vélo” (Cyclists Welcome) label.

To reach Avignon, opt for a two-wheel ride to the island of Barthelasse (superb view of the one and only Pont d’Avignon). You can then get onto the bac à traille with your bike – a free river shuttle that goes back and forth across the Rhône throughout the day. Perfect for a combined town & country tour.

Street Art Villeneuve Avignon Hellolaroux

Avignon, the episcopal city

Avignon, Avignon, how can we resist you? The charm is total and immediate. The world-famed “City of Popes” oozes history through every pore. Foodies, curiousity-seekers, history buffs and art & culture enthusiasts alike will delight in roaming the town’s narrow lanes and alleys on foot or by bike. Keep your eyes peeled: every corner of the town boasts its share of sometimes-priceless treasures.

Our wanderings inevitably led us to one of Provence’s most majestic sights, the world-famed Palais des Papes, or Popes’ Palace. This gigantic Gothic structure, built in the Middle Ages, unveils 900 years of tumultuous history and ruthless power struggles. Avignon became the capital of Christianity in the 14th century. At the time, nine Popes were successively seated there until ecclesiastical power was returned to Rome. Today, visitors can enjoy a digital tablet tour of the palace, allowing you to step back in time and appreciate the majesty of the various rooms.

It goes without saying that this beautifully-preserved chapter of history is an absolute must during your visit to Avignon.

Tips and top addresses in and around Avignon:

Good deal: The Vaucluse Provence Pass is well worth it if you’re planning several tours (Palais des Papes, Pont d’Avignon, Roman Theatre). From €30 / person.
Where to stay in Avignon: we recommend several hotels: Le Magnan, a 3-star boutique hotel, Le Bristol, 4 stars (excellent value for money), ideally located near the main sights. If your budget is a bit more lavish (or you fancy treating yourself), La Maison de l’Olivier is a refreshing haven (with pool) in the heart of the historic quarter.
Where to stay in Villeneuve-lez-Avignon: you can, of course, spend two nights in Avignon, but we can’t resist mentioning a really great address on the other bank of the Rhône. L’Atelier is a charming, bohemian, Provencal-style hotel in Villeneuve. A definite fave!
Eating out: The Bistro du Moulin or ORSO in Villeneuve-lez-Avignon. In Avignon, we recommend Première Édition (small and original menu showcasing local produce), Les Halles (various stands where you can enjoy a bite to eat), Pinocchio (Italian) or Le Carré du Palais (situated right opposite the Palais des Papes).

Day 4 & 5: In and around Carpentras

Things to do in Carpentras

Easily accessible by train from Avignon (30 minutes), our next stop in the heart of Provence is Carpentras, the historic capital of the Comtat Venaissin area. The Tourist Office hosts a discovery trail inviting visitors to delve into the town’s fascinating history. The picturesque streets unveil France’s oldest synagogue, an architectural gem bearing witness to the region’s Jewish population dating back centuries. Although simple in appearance, it harbours some unusual curiosities – but we won’t spoil the surprise! Built in 1367, the synagogue is still in operation and now constitutes an essential place of remembrance.

Culture fans won’t want to miss a visit to the Bibliothèque-Musée Inguimbertine, a library-come-museum set inside the former Hôtel-Dieu (hospice). This unique venue houses a vast collection of old books, precious manuscripts and works of art. For those with a sweet tooth, a visit to the Mont-Ventoux confectionery is a must. You can even enjoy seeing how the famous Carpentras berlingot is made – the recipe for this traditional boiled sweet is still quite jealously guarded. Please book ahead for your tour.

On some dates, you can climb to the top of the Porte d’Orange gate to enjoy a bird’s eye view of the town centre. Just ask at for details at the Tourist Office.

Cycling and hiking around Carpentras

Ideally situated on the nourishing plains of Ventoux, Carpentras is the perfect base for exploring the beautiful surrounding villages. Our slow travel wanderings took us to the “Autour du canal de Carpentras” cycle route – a pretty loop leading to the hilltop village of Beaumes-les-Venise, renowned for its sweet muscatel wines. We particularly recommend sampling a glass in the shade of a veteran plane tree… The surrounding areas are gorgeous too, with endless stretches of vines panning out under the watchful gaze of the Dentelles de Montmirail rocks and Mont Ventoux, aka the “Giant of Provence”. The secondary roads are ideal for peaceful exploration.

If hiking is more your thing, we recommend heading to the south of Carpentras, where you’ll find a fabulous trail crossing the mounts of Vaucluse and magnificent village of Pernes-les-Fontaines. Nature lovers will enjoy roaming the fields of oak trees, while craft enthusiasts can opt for a village tour on the trail dedicated to local artists. Push open the door to the local studios and galleries to learn more about their passion and know-how – simply follow the route mapped out with stars on the ground. During your tour, try to spot the village’s 41 fountains. And if you’re up for it, you can combine the two tours to make a day of it (tested and approved).

You can download the GPX track for the bike ride to Beaumes-de-Venise here and the hike around Pernes-les-Fontaines here.

Loop around the Canal Carpentras Hellolaroux

Tips and top addresses in and around Carpentras:

Places to stay in Carpentras: we recommend the Hôtel le Forum, a simple and well-situated hotel near Carpentras’ main sights.
For bicycle hire, we’ve found the ideal partner. Véloc’Sud drops off your bike at the location of your choice (you need to book 24 hours ahead). Lovely people and excellent, fast service.
Eating out in Carpentras: La Bon’Heur (generous, southern-style cuisine), or the Bistro de la Place if you want to rub shoulders with the locals.
Our favourite eatery in Pernes-les-Fontaines: Les filles à Maman, a small, locally-sourced menu that changes according to the day’s ingredients and chef’s inspiration. Pretty, shaded terrace, perfect for sipping a glass of rosé.
Synagogue de Carpentras entry price: €7 (you can buy tickets at the Tourist Office or directly at the Synagogue. For the latter, make sure you have change).
Bibliothèque-Musée Inguimbertine entry price: library free of charge. Temporary exhibitions €8 / full rate.

Option: around Mont Ventoux

If you’re spending an extra few days in the Mont Ventoux area, you’ll find plenty of other micro-adventures in this infinite playground. If you fancy a really tough cycling challenge, the daunting climb to the summit of Mont Ventoux is a must, with a choice of three different routes: Bedoin, Malaucène and Sault.

Slower and more accessible but just as challenging, the Tour du Mont Ventoux cycle tour comprises three stages and a total of 138 kilometres. On the sightseeing menu: Nesque gorge, Toulourenc valley and the beautiful villages of Sault, Brantes, Saint-Léger and Savoillans. A fabulous programme combining serious sport and stunning scenery.