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A new interpretation of aioli

from a starred chef in the Var!

The aioli that we enjoy every summer to go with seafood and crunchy raw veggies…The aioli which is part and parcel of the South of France and especially Provence, that’s the aioli we eat in a number of forms! And it has always been an inspiration for local starred chefs who have made it a reinterpreted must of Provencal cuisine.

How aioli developed

The emulsion of garlic and olive oil that we just adore, particularly in the South, is originally from the Mediterranean area. Widespread over the north coast of the Mediterranean, aioli has been well-approved for a long time from Andalucia to Sicily and of course in Provence. Traditional aioli is prepared in a mortar where garlic is crushed with olive oil (preferably!). An absolute must on a pretty sunny Provencal table, this revigorating sauce is found alongside lovely vegetables, tender snails, white fish cooked to perfection, potatoes and even freshly-caught seafood. The famous author Frédéric Mistral devoted a paper in Provencal language to it called L’Aiòli. Maybe he loved it too! Aioli is also a source of inspiration for the Michelin-starred chef at Mas Les Eydins, a not-to-be-missed venue in the region and on whose table it is served in a gourmet, modern version. Here we unveil the Chef’s recipe with its blend of sophistication and fine gentle Provencal life, and it will have your mouth watering!

Chef Christophe Bacquié’s special aioli recipe

Cook the octopus

Ingredients (for 6):

  • 1 octopus (760 grammes)
  • Fine pink Himalaya salt
  • Freshly ground white pepper
  • Espelette pepper
  • 30 g olive oil

Preparation:

Put the octopus in the freezer for a week and take it out the day before beginning the recipe and leave it to defrost. Freezing the octopus will make it more supple. On the day, separate the head from the tentacles. Clean the tentacles thoroughly. Leave to drain, season with fine salt, freshly ground white pepper and Espelette pepper.

Put the tentacles in a cooking pouch with olive oil, seal and cook for 3 hours at 80°C in the steam oven. If you are not set up for vacuum cooking, you can cook the octopus in fish stock, but no hotter than 80°C. Be very careful not to exceed the temperature.

Cut the octopus into 1 to 1.5-cm sections and leave to cool. Season with olive oil, grapefruit and lime zest, pepper, fleur de sel salt and Espelette pepper.

 

Glaze the tomatoes

Ingredients:

  • 4 colourful cherry tomatoes
  • Fleur de sel salt

Prparation:

Peel the tomatoes at the top and make a small cut to form a cap and season with fleur de sel salt. Glaze in the oven for 2 hours at 60°C.

 

Grill the potatoes

Ingredients:

  • 12 small new potatoes
  • 1 spoonful olive oil
  • 1 clove of garlic
  • 1 branch of thyme

Preparation:

Peel the potatoes and cut them in half. Glaze them 15 to 20 minutes in a casserole with the olive oil,  the crushed unpeeled garlic and the branch of thyme. Grill them in a broiler.

 

Prepare the vegetables

Ingredients:

  • 1 green round summer courgette
  • 1 green “zapalito” courgette
  • 1 yellow courgette
  • 1 Pleine de Naples courgette
  • 2 yellow carrots with tops and two carrots with tops
  • 16 green beans
  • 4 yellow cauliflower tops
  • 4 Romanesco tops
  • 1 l fish stock
  • 4 round radishes
  • Coarse salt

Preparation:

Peel all the vegetables. Cut the courgettes into regular chunks, and cut the carrots in half. Leave to one side. Cook the beans rapidly in the fish stock. Remove the beans with a skimmer and cool them on a baking sheet previously cooled in the freezer. Cook all the vegetables separately in the same fish stock with olive oil. Cool the vegetables immediately in the same way. Avoid cooling the vegetables in iced water as it alters their flavour.

Cut the radishes in quarters, leaving the tops on. Arrange all the vegetables together and warm them. Season with the olive oil and basil, the zests of grapefruit and lime, Timut pepper, fleur de sel salt and Espelette pepper.

Make the aioli

Ingredients:

  • 20 g mustard
  • 1 egg yolk
  • 2 g salt
  • 80 g grape seed oil
  • 30 g fruity olive oil
  • 30 g slightly salted softened butter
  • 12 g sherry vinegar
  • 15 g water
  • 12 g garlic puree, blanched three times
  • Freshly ground white pepper
  • 1 cartridge of gas

Preparation:

Mix the mustard, egg yolks and salt. Whisk as if you were making mayonnaise, with the two oils followed by the melted butter. Thin with the vinegar and water and then add the garlic puree and grate the clove of garlic over the top.

Season with the freshly ground white pepper, strain through a cloth strainer and place in a cream whipper with a gas cartridge. Place the cream whipper in a bain-marie at 55°C.

Lastly, arrange the vegetables and the pieces of octopus nicely on top. Add anchovies, samphire and grapefruit segments. Place a quenelle of aioli, finish with the basil oil, dwarf basil and Espelette pepper.

La Table des Amis, Christophe Bacquié’s intimate restaurant

Meilleur Ouvrier de France with three stars, Christophe Bacquié knows how to seduce the taste buds of the most sophisticated palates that frequent his restaurant, in the heart of the Luberon, in Bonnieux. Christophe and his wife, Alexandra, have created a real haven of peace: Le Mas Les Eydins – an intimate little paradise with a peaceful atmosphere where their guests come in search of nature and to switch off. For gourmets, la Table des Amis, the Chef’s restaurant, is ready to help you discover Christophe Bacquié’s talent on your plate. With the idea of awakening his guests’ senses with each dish, the Chef subtly works flavours and only uses excellent products. In the gentle atmosphere of a typically Provencal setting, decorated with two Michelin stars, Alexandra and Christophe Bacquié strive to have their guests experience an intimate and friendly experience and be able to leave with all their senses fulfilled.

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