Snow & Christmas in Provence and Southern French Alpes

Every year when Christmas comes around, Marseille celebrates the birth of Christ in true Provençal style, with a thousand and one sparkling lights. On the Vieux-Port, the traditional Santon Fair – a genuine local institution first held at the very start of the 19th century – opens its arms to welcome regular visitors and newcomers alike. Icons of Provence and especially the local town of Aubagne, these small, hand-painted clay figurines depict characters from the Nativity scene: the Baby Jesus, Virgin Mary, Joseph and the Three Wise Men, as well as Provence’s traditional trades. Held on the world-famed Canebière, the city’s main thoroughfare, the Christmas market invites you to meet with the finest local craftspeople, as the delicious aroma of mulled wine, scented with cinnamon and star anise, wafts from the market’s little wooden chalets…

With its typical Mediterranean lifestyle and old lanes lined with boutiques and art galleries, Saint-Rémy-de-Provence has all the ingredients of a typical Provençal Christmas. Every winter, the square in front of the town hall magicks into an enchanting theatre stage. In Avignon, the crib scene on show at the Eglise des Célestins is a genuine local institution. And the fairytale market on Place Saint-Jean-le-Vieux offers everything you’ll need to make Provence’s must-have Thirteen Desserts, an homage to Christ and the twelve apostles. Among them, walnuts, hazelnuts, dried figs, almonds and raisins have pride of place, alongside pompe à huile brioche, nougat, apples, pears, tangerines, candied fruit and Calisson candies… The mix varies according to family customs, but tradition dictates that each guest take a bite of each dessert to bring good fortune throughout the new year!

An ancient Roman city and town of art and culture, Arles is particularly attached to its Christmas traditions. Every year, in late November, its Palais des Congrès convention centre is the venue for Provence Prestige, a major Provence lifestyle fair held throughout the Christmas period, showcasing local gastronomy, wines, spirits, fashion, beauty, wellbeing, home decor, leisure, culture and heritage… In all, 150 passionate, talented and friendly exhibitors committed to promoting local know-how. You’ll also find plenty of activities on offer at the fair, including tasting sessions, creative workshops and educational farm tours for tiny tots. Meanwhile, the traditional Christmas market held on Place de la République in Arles’ historic quarter gives pride of place to Provençal arts & crafts.

Basking at the gateway to Écrins National Park, the ski resort of Orcières-Merlette, at an altitude of 1,850 metres, is a haven for snow sports aficionados, with an impressive 51 slopes bathed in generous sunshine, plus a freestyle snow park designed for novices and seasoned skiers alike. With 21 km of snowshoeing trails, Orcières also gives of place to non-ski activities, including dog sledding, snowmobiling, snow tubing, paragliding and go-karting. Adrenalin freaks will love the sheer exhilaration of the Roll Air Cable, one of Europe’s longest ziplines – an incredible journey between land and sky lasting 1 minute and 20 seconds. And if the great indoors is more your thing, the Palais des Sports d’Orcières Merlette sports complex, spanning a vast 10,000 m², offers a heated pool, skating rink, bowling alley and climbing wall.

Authentic and sunny, Gap epitomizes the spirit of the Southern Alps to perfection. The town’s historic centre unveils a charming labyrinth of old lanes with the picturesque Place Jean Marcellin – the venue for the yearly Christmas market – at its core, lined with colourful pink and orange façades and steeped in a typical Mediterranean atmosphere. Locals flock here to sample typical Champsaur specialities such as ravioles, tourtons – little cheese, meat or spinach pastry puffs – or the Tarte des Alpes, stuffed with delicious jam. Enjoy a visit to the Musée Museum Départemental des Hautes-Alpes to delve into the region’s rich and tumultuous history since prehistoric times, or a tour of Domaine de Charance, home to a remarkable rose garden planted with 600 heirloom varieties.

Panning out under the majestic rocky ridges of Mount Eyssina, the Vars La Forêt Blanche ski area offers sumptuous views over Serre-Ponçon lake. Here, a combination of Mediterranean and high-altitude climates guarantees exceptional snow cover on the 115 slopes. Vars’ incredible speed skiing slope – the world’s fastest at a heart-stopping 254.958 km/hr – has made the resort somewhat of a star in the world of snow sports. Its traditional alpine houses clad with wood, stone and slate lend the village its unique winter wonderland charm… The neighbouring resort of Risoul, home to a ski area rising to 2,750 metres, offers an impressive 185 km of slopes, crisscrossing a magnificent larch forest.

Embrun is poised on a rocky outcrop overlooking the Durance river, at an altitude of 870 metres. Its belvedere, gazing out over Mont Orel, Mont Méale and Pic du Morgon, unveils the sheer power of the wild Southern Alps relief. A former episcopal city, Embrun also boasts a rich religious heritage in the shape of the impressive Notre-Dame-du-Réal Cathedral, inspired by the architecture of Lombardy, and Tour Brune, the former archbishops’ keep, now an Écrins National Park exhibition space. Back in Provence, Aix-en-Provence is adorned with stunning illuminations from late November onwards. On Cours Mirabeau, the Christmas chalets overflow with the finest Provençal specialities, whether truffles, olive oil or candied fruit. On Place de la Rotonde, you’ll find local Santon figurine makers displaying their hand-crafted creations, timeless symbols of Christmas in Provence.