NÎMES, CAMARGUE & THE CITY OF THE POPES

Welcome to Nîmes, formerly known as Nemausus, one of the world’s best-preserved Roman cities. Our discovery experience kicks off with the must-see heritage sights. The majestic Roman Amphitheatre, blending perfectly into its modern-day urban setting, forms the beating heart of Nîmes. A few steps away, La Maison Carrée – a Roman temple listed as UNESCO World Heritage – unveils flawless proportions and timeless elegance.

But what we love most about Nîmes are the surprises that await around every corner: a private old mansion, an exquisitely ornate old door, mullioned windows, or an ancient ruin. Keep your eyes peeled!

The tour continues along Quai de la Fontaine, leading to the gardens of the same name. The colours are particularly pretty here in autumn. Amid the ponds, statues and shaded pathways lies the Temple of Diana and further up, the impressive Tour Magne, the only Gallo-Roman remainder of 80 ancient towers formerly erected at the highest point of the city.

If you want to dive deeper into Nîmes’ ancient history, the Musée de la Romanité offers a delightfully contemporary counterpoint. Its fluid layout weaves ties between past and present, helping visitors understand the city’s ancient remains in the context of today.

You’ll doubtless be peckish by midday, so next stop is naturally Les Halles food court. This is where Nîmes unveils another facet of its character: a passion for food. Cod brandade, Cévennes cheeses, local specialities and seasonal produce form a tempting treasure trove that tells the story of this beautiful area and its scenery.

And although it may come as a surprise, Nîmes is also renowned for its creative modern arts scene. Roam around the Gambetta and Richelieu quarters to admire the urban murals from the Expo de Ouf!, a genuine open-air art gallery.

Last but not least, no tour of Nîmes would be complete without a delve into its historic ties with denim – the name actually comes from “de Nîmes” (from Nîmes)! The Musée du Vieux Nîmes traces the city’s textile history, while the Ateliers de Nîmes hosts workshops where can try your hand at indigo dyeing or weaving (please book ahead). A great way to gain a better understanding of local know-how before a spot of shopping at the Ateliers outlet in the city centre.

You can find the GPX track for our day here.

This morning, we’re setting off from Nîmes by train to Camargue. The scenery becomes more expansive, flatter and rockier on the approach to Aigues-Mortes. The ancient city walls come into view just a few minutes from the train station, jutting skywards and surrounded by canals and lagoons. What a sight!

Inside the walls, let the cobbled streets lead you on a fascinating discovery tour. You’ll come across craft shops, gourmet addresses and workshops inspired by Camargue’s inimitable lifestyle along the way. Stop off to savour a beer or fougasse-flavoured gin at Chez Jeannot before continuing your exploration of the local craftspeople, artists and know-how, including traditional Provençal santon figurines by Les Artisans de Samaël.

Various bistros serving generous local cuisine await you at lunchtime, but we finally settled on Chez Vincent – a typical Camargue bistro with a tasty and colourful chalkboard menu.

The city walls of Aigues-Mortes are one of Europe’s best-preserved medieval constructions. The view from the top is spectacular, embracing the saltmarshes and their ever-changing hues, canals and landscapes of Camargue stretching as far as the eye can see. It’s easy to understand the town’s strategic and historic importance from up here. Breathe in the salty air and taste the freedom… You’ll need a good hour and a half to walk the whole of the 1,640-metre walls.

Next, step inside Eglise Notre-Dame-des-Sablons, a restored church offering a captivating mix of Gothic, medieval and contemporary art with its stained-glass windows by Claude Viallat. And before you leave, you simply must taste THE local speciality – la fougasse d’Aigues-Mortes – a brioche delicately scented with orange blossom to savour on Place Saint-Louis, facing the statue of the founding king.

You can find the GPX track for our day here.

Our last day takes us to Avignon. The train journey is short and take you straight to the heart of the city. Everything is doable on foot here too. Before reaching Avignon’s iconic monuments, you’ll come across lesser-known sights such as the Cloître Saint-Louis (free entry). A former Jesuit novitiate, this 12th-century construction has lost none of its former charm and warm atmosphere.

The Médiathèque Ceccano (free entry) media library is an unexpected stop-off. Set inside an ancient cardinal’s palace, it unveils a magnificent reading hall adorned with frescoes and painted ceilings.

Already familiar with the Palace of the Popes? Then follow in our footsteps with a tour of the Petit Palais – Louvre en Avignon (free entry), which is equally fascinating. Located in the former cardinal’s palace of Arnaud de Via, its collection of medieval and Renaissance paintings is one of Europe’s finest.

The afternoon continues off the beaten track. Hidden away in Rue Four de la Terre, we push open the door to the Bains Pommer (free tour). These ancient Belle Époque public baths offer an astonishing plunge into the daily life of the people of Avignon in bygone days. A little further on, the Musée du Mont de Piété et de la Condition de la Soie (set inside the former Mont-De-Piété, now the Municipal Archives) relates the city’s social and economic history (free tour).

As you head towards the Carreterie quarter, Avignon begins to resemble a village tucked at the foot of the Rocher des Doms. Discreet squares, little chapels, old mansions (including that of Madon de Chateaublanc) and cobbled lanes offer a delightfully peaceful decor.

You can find the GPX track for our day here.